Royal Robbins, an American rock climbing pioneer who was one of the original free-climbing and big wall legends of Yosemite, passed away on Tuesday, his family announced. He was 82.
The list of Robbins' first ascents is daunting. In 1957, along with Jerry Galwas and Mike Sherrick, he climbed the northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite, the first Grade VI climb in America. In 1961 he conquered the Salathé Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite, which was considered the hardest big wall climb in the world at the time. He would pioneer several other routes up El Capitan.
Later in life, he would become an accomplished kayaker. He also started a small gear company which has now grown into Royal Robbins, a clothing outfitter still selling outdoor apparel.
Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Yvon Chouinard on the summit of El Capitan (Wikimedia Commons)
Robbins, along with his friend Yvon Chouinard -- the founder of Patagonia -- were inspirational figures in the climbing culture of the 1960s, preaching that climbers should respect the natural contours of the rock and eschew the over-use of screws and pitons to aid in their ascents.
“My father faced challenges in his climbing, his writing, his business, his role as a father and husband, and later in life in his debilitating illness,” said Royal's daughter, Tamara Robbins, via Climbing. “Through it all, he rose to the occasion, taking the challenges on with grace and humility. For that, he’s my hero."
