Hunt for white elephants tests Brazil’s World Cup

Say this for organizers of Brazil’s World Cup: their taste in

stadiums is impeccable.

The graceful Arena das Dunas in the coastal city of Natal, where

the United States and seven other teams will play, is a prime

example. This isn’t simply a mere place to watch soccer, it’s a

shrine to the sport’s wealth and power, its ability to commandeer


The curves of the stadium’s bone-white roof bring to mind

wind-sculptured sand dunes. The light and dark blues of its 42,000

seats are a wink to the hues of the nearby Atlantic. Sea breezes

naturally cool the airy bowl. In the pristine white changing rooms,

players with an eye for detail might notice the stadium’s name

engraved on their lockers’ chrome handles.

Then what? The gauge of Brazil’s success as the 2014 World Cup

organizer won’t simply be if it pulls off a samba-filled month of

futebol fun. An acid test will also be whether its World Cup

stadiums built or renovated for $3.4 billion subsequently justify

the investment that critics say could otherwise have been used to

improve the lives of Brazil’s millions of poor.

For the majority of Brazil’s 12 World Cup venues, the future

looks assured, because they have teams sufficiently big to draw

spectators and revenue. For others, not slowly becoming monuments

to wastefulness will be more of a challenge. They include new

stadiums in Natal, in the Amazon city of Manaus, in Cuiaba in

west-central Brazil’s wetlands and in the capital, Brasilia.

When Natal’s mayor, Carlos Eduardo Nunes Alves, was elected last

October, the decision to spend $180 million had long ago been taken

and construction was well underway. If given the choice, he says he

would have preferred a stadium costing half that and the rest

invested on schools, hospitals and transport for his city’s 800,000


”I hope these golden cages can be good for something,” he said

in an interview. ”We have to think positively and make an effort

to make this stadium a living thing and not a white elephant.”

Build and they will come. That is the mantra World Cup

organizers repeat over and over to justify these constructions.

They say the venues’ comfort and safety will draw families to

soccer long after the World Cup turns its attention to Russia, its

next destination in 2018. Governing body FIFA is already claiming

success, saying that after six of the stadiums opened for business

with the Confederations Cup in June, they have nearly all been

pulling in crowds larger – much larger at three stadiums – than the

Brazilian league average of 14,951 fans per game. The Arena

Pernambuco in the Atlantic beach city of Recife is the exception,

drawing an average of 11,955 spectators per game, FIFA says.

Brazilian officials say hosting pop concerts and other events

will help make ends meet for stadiums that cannot live off soccer

alone. In Natal, 10,000 seats will be stripped out of the stadium

post-World Cup to manage costs.

In short, move along, no white elephants here.

But World Cup organizers have to say that, especially after

Brazilians poured into the streets in June to demand better public

services and decry World Cup expenses. The cost of building

stadiums sufficiently large and modern to satisfy FIFA has become a

protest battle-cry. In Salvador, aviation employees campaigning for

better salaries have stuck up posters demanding ”Less FIFA

standards, more respect for workers” at the airport that will

serve as the gateway for fans coming for six World Cup games at the

city’s new Arena Fonte Nova.

In Natal, the presidents of local teams ABC and America, which

play in the Brazilian league’s second tier, both expect far bigger

crowds at that city’s new stadium post-World Cup. The teams’ flags

already hang from its rafters. The divide between rival fans – the

”ABCdistas” and ”Americanos” – cuts through Natal like a fault

line. Natal’s mayor supports ABC; his chief of staff is an


The ABC motto, written large on the front of its existing,

grubby and Spartan 18,000-capacity Frasqueirao Stadium, is ”O Mais

Querido,” meaning ”The dearest.” With next-to-no prompting, ABC

fans lustily belt out the team song and its chorus: ”Salute the

dearest! Salute the dearest!”

The Frasqueirao ”is big enough for our needs,” ABC president

Rubens Guilherme Dantas said in a telephone interview. ”There was

really no need” for the new one.

”It’s a lot of money, and society and the citizens are actually

paying for that,” Dantas said.

But ”the Arena das Dunas is really a nice stadium, it’s very

pretty and very comfortable,” he added. ”It will attract a lot of

people, especially families and kids, it will be more accessible to

them, safer.”

”I think we may get double the attendance in the new


Alex Padang, the outgoing president of America, echoed that.

After the 40-year-old Machadao stadium was demolished in 2011 to

make space for the World Cup ground, America set up temporarily

some 50 miles from Natal, making it ”the team that had to play

away from home for the longest time in the entire world,” Padang

said by phone.

”There’s no doubt that the Arena das Dunas will be good for

us,” he said. More than 1,300 people have joined the club’s new

membership program launched recently to take advantage of the new

arena. This season, America attracted 2,000 fans per game, he said.

In the new stadium, Padang expects crowds of 25,000 for important

matches, falling to 5,000 for low-profile games.

”Our fans needed a long trip to get to our games, now they’ll

be a bus ride away,” he said.

AP Sports Writer Tales Azzoni in Sao Paulo contributed to this

report. Leicester is an international sports columnist for The

Associated Press. Write to him at jleicester(at) or follow

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