St. Andrews is an acquired taste

Jack Nicklaus and Tiger Woods fell in love with St. Andrews the

first time they saw it.

Not so with Bobby Jones.

Or Sam Snead.

Legend has it that Jones tore up his scorecard and stormed off

the course the first time he played the Old Course. That’s not

entirely accurate. In his debut at the home of golf in the 1921

British Open, he went out in 46 during the third round, made 6 on

the next two holes and picked up his ball without finishing the

11th hole. This from a man who went on to win the claret jug there

six years later, and the British Amateur in 1930 on his way to the

Grand Slam.

Such is the essence of St. Andrews.

It is a links course that can inspire immediate affection.

”I fell in love with it the first time I ever played it,”

Woods said. ”I played it when the tide changed right when I was at

the turn, so I played all 18 holes into the wind. Absolutely fell

in love with the golf course.”

And it is a course that can evoke eternal disdain.

”Worst piece of mess I’ve ever played,” Scott Hoch said.

Snead was somewhere in between.

He made his first journey to St. Andrews for the 1946 British

Open, and as his train pulled into the old gray town, Snead gazed

out the window at the Old Course and said, ”Say! That looks like

an old, abandoned golf course. What did they call it?”

It grew on him, for he went home with the claret jug after a

four-shot victory. Years later, he still wasn’t sure what to think.

”Down home, we wouldn’t plant bow beets on land like that,” Snead


But there is no denying one aspect to the 150th anniversary of

this British Open. There is something magical about playing golf’s

oldest championship on the linksland where it all started.

”If you’re a golfer, how could you not be a little bit in awe

when you get to the first tee, with the R&A building, the 18th

green, all the things that have happened over the last 400 or so

years?” Scott Verplank said.

Then he added the ultimate compliment: ”It will teach you

everything you need to know about playing golf.”

”Course management and the strategy of golf is all on that golf

course,” he said. ”If you want to play conservatively, you go

further left and leave yourself a tougher shot. If you want to play

aggressive, you play further to the right and have a better angle

at the flag. People who don’t like it don’t understand it. If you

understand it, then it’s brilliant.”

First impressions can be misleading.

Justin Leonard first played the Old Course on a golfing trip

with his father when he was 12. He was old enough to understand the

historical significance of St. Andrews, but little else.

”I thought it was the nuttiest place I had ever seen, to be

quite honest. Has it changed today? Not a whole lot,” Leonard said

with a laugh. ”It’s pretty quirky, and that’s not always a bad

thing. It doesn’t matter how many times you play it, you’ve got to

sit there and look at your yardage book and figure out where you’re


Curtis Strange first went to St. Andrews with a 1975 Walker Cup

team that included Hoch, Jay Haas and Craig Stadler.

”We all thought we had been transplanted to the moon,” Strange

said, who went on to set the course record with a 62 in the 1987

Dunhill Cup. ”I will say that I hated it, like some guys, because

you wonder what’s going on. But the more you play it, the more you

realize how special it is.”

Geoff Ogilvy first went to St. Andrews with his father when he

was 16, and like so many others, he loved it the first time he

played it.

”I think it would be fair to say that I really wanted to like

the course, so it is perhaps hard to be completely objective about

a place you have decided to like before you even play it,” Ogilvy

said. ”I liked the width of the place, and enjoyed that there

seemed no prescribed way to play the course. The route you take

around it is up to you.

”I’m not sure if I understood any of this at 16, but I remember

having lots of fun that first time.”

Nicklaus, meanwhile, was equipped with a scouting report.

Much like Jones, his idol, Nicklaus first played the Old Course

as part of a trip to Britain for the Walker Cup at Muirfield.

”My father went over before and played with a couple of his

friends, and he said it was the worst golf course they’d ever seen

— what a cow pasture it was, horrible conditions,” Nicklaus

said. ”Of course, they three-putted 13, 14, 15 greens. And they

didn’t have a very good time because they didn’t understand the

golf course.

”When I went there, I didn’t know what to expect,” he said.

”I went down there and I saw this village and this big, beautiful

pasture out there. Then I went out and played the course and I

loved it. I suppose I loved it because all kids try to do the

opposite of their father. I just fell in love with the place.”

What a love affair that turned out to be. Nicklaus won the

British Open at St. Andrews in 1970 and 1978, received an honorary

degree from St. Andrews University, and the Royal Bank of Scotland

produced a 5-pound note with his image when he chose St. Andrews to

be his final major championship in 2005.

That year, Woods matched Nicklaus by winning his second Open on

the Old Course, and he returns this year trying to become the first

player to ever win three times at St. Andrews.

Woods’ first impression was that it was easy to hit the

fairways. Then he realized how little that mattered.

”I though it would be a little bit more narrow,” Woods said.

”But then again, once you start playing, you realize it’s not that

wide. To get the angles to you need to have into these flags, it

narrows up very quickly. Then you add wind, and where you need to

put the golf ball to give yourself a chance of getting the ball

close, it gets really narrow.

”You can hit every fairway there and still never have a shot at

a flag.”

What makes St. Andrews unique is that all but four holes have

double greens, and they may as well share the fairways. Because it

has no trees, and so many of the pot bunkers are not visible off

the tee, it can be difficult to figure out where to hit tee


Verplank’s problem the first time he played St. Andrews was what

to do after the tee shots.

”I spent three days figuring out the lines off the tee, with

however the wind was going to go,” he said. ”I thought I had it

down perfect. So I get to the second hole and I stripe a 3-wood

right down there perfect. I had sand wedge to the green. And I had

no idea where to hit it. I had six three-putts the first day

because I kept hitting it 80 feet away.”

Like with any links, there can be some funny bounces along the

way. But there’s something different – something special – about

St. Andrews that perhaps former British Open champion George Duncan

summed up best.

”St. Andrews has got a character and features that you find

nowhere else,” Duncan once said. ”You can play a damned good shot

and find the ball in a damned bad place. That is the real game of


That’s the home of golf.